1 ounce dried porcini 1 cup hot water 1 cup minced red onion 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 1/2 cups cooked and drained spinach, chopped 2 teaspoons minced garlic 1 15-ounce container ricotta cheese 1/2 cup coarsely grated mozzarella 1 cup grated locatelli cheese 1 large egg, beaten lightly Salt and pepper to taste Freshly grated nutmeg to taste 8 manicotti shells
For the sauce: 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 tablespoons flour 1 1/2 cups milk, heated Freshly grated nutmeg Salt and pepper to taste Snipped fresh chives or minced parsley for garnish if desired
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a heatproof bowl soak the porcini in the water for 15 minutes. Drain the porcini, reserving the liquid, pat dry and chop fine. Strain reserved soaking liquid through a double thickness of dampened cheesecloth into a bowl.
In a skillet set over moderate heat cook the onion in the butter, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes.
Add the spinach, garlic and mushrooms and cook, stirring, 3 to 4 minutes, or until heated through. Transfer mixture to a bowl, add remaining ingredients (using only 1/2 cup of locatelli) and gently stir to combine well.
Cook the manicotti in boiling salted water until just al dente. With a slotted spoon transfer to a bowl of cold water, drain and pat dry. Gently stuff shells with filling and arrange in a buttered baking dish.
Make the sauce: In a saucepan set over moderately low heat melt the butter, add the flour and cook the mixture, whisking, for 2 minutes. Add the milk and reserved mushroom liquid and bring to a simmer, whisking. Add nutmeg, salt and pepper and simmer, whisking occasionally, for 5 minutes.
Spoon the sauce over the manicotti, sprinkle with the remaining locatelli and bake, covered with foil for 30 minutes. Uncover and bake for 10-15 minutes longer. Let rest 5 minutes. Sprinkle with snipped fresh chives.
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Servings: Makes about 1 quart, enough to dress 6 servings of pasta
Description: The difference between marinara sauce and tomato sauce (a recipe follows) is this: Marinara is a quick sauce, seasoned only with garlic, pepper and, if you like basil or oregano. The pieces of tomato are left chunky and the texture of the finished sauce is fairly loose. Tomato sauce, on the other hands is a more complex affair, starting with pureed tomatoes and seasoned with onion, carrot, celery and bay leaf, and left to simmer until thickened and rich in flavor.
Ingredients: ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 8 garlic cloves, peeled 3 pounds ripe fresh plum tomatoes, peeled and seeded, or one 35 ounce can Italian plum tomatoes (preferably San Marzano), seeded and lightly crushed, with their liquid Salt Crushed red pepper 10 fresh basil leaves, torn into small pieces
Directions: Make this sauce with fresh tomatoes only when the juiciest, most flavorful ripe tomatoes are available. (Increase the amount of olive oil a little if you make the sauce with fresh tomatoes.) Otherwise, canned plum tomatoes make a delicious marinara sauce.
Heat the oil in a 2 to 3-quart non-reactive saucepan over medium heat. Whack the garlic with the flat side of a knife, add it to the oil and cook until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Carefully slide the tomatoes and their liquid into the oil. Bring to a boil and season lightly with salt and crushed red pepper. Lower the heat so the sauce is at a lively simmer and cook, breaking up the tomatoes with a whisk or spoon, until the sauce is chunky and thick, about 20 minutes. Stir in the basil about 5 minutes before the sauce is finished. Taste the sauce and season with salt and red pepper if necessary.